Mijn router is een Asus RT-AC68U met Merlin firmware
De rest is vrij simpel, je zet de jusite Vlan ID’s in de router en het werkt wel.
De volgende Vlans worden gebruikt:
* internet 300
* IPTV 640

Mijn probleem zat hem in VOIP, dit wordt redelijk veel gebruikt bij ons thuis, T-mobile geeft geen SIP gegevens vrij.

De gegevens voor Voip en SIP worden niet vrijgegeven. Dit doen we voor de veiligheid van onze gebruikers en om de dienst te kunnen waarborgen. Vaste telefoon aansluiten op Phone 1 en bellen. Dat is de dienst die we aanbieden. Niet meer, niet minder. 

De oplossing is niet zo elegant maar wel simpel.
Met de juiste Vlan settings kan je de T-mobile router achter de Asus hangen en zo toch VOIP gebruiken…
Via SSH de volgende commando’s uitvoeren is voldoende om de T-mobile router te laten werken op poort 3 van mijn Asus.

robocfg vlan 300 ports "0t 3t 5t"
robocfg vlan 640 ports "0t 4"
robocfg vlan 1 ports "1 2 5t"

Dit is na een herstart weer weg dus moet het in een script.
Ik heb het in een wan-script gedaan, deze wordt gestart zodra de WAN interface online is.

#!/bin/sh
robocfg vlan 300 ports "0t 3t 5t"
robocfg vlan 640 ports "0t 4"
robocfg vlan 1 ports "1 2 5t"

Dit script moet staan in /jffs/scripts en moet natuurlijk uitvoerbaar zijn.

The post T-mobile glasvezel met eigen router first appeared on Maredana.

Well there’s your problem… To much resistance in the fuse holders causing them to melt.

So I completely stripped it and removed all (non original) cables.

To sum it up:

• Removed all stator/regulator connectors and soldered the wires together
• Regulator straight to the battery instead of going to the harness
• Added a fuse holder between regulator and battery
• Replaced the wire from battery to the main fuse
• Replaced the main fuse holder
• Re-checked the ground connector 
• Added an extra ground wire from battery to the frame.
• Cleaned all ground points
• Replaced all fuses
• Sprayed every contact and fuse with petroleum jelly
• Moved my voltage meter in sight.

Custom Voltage meterAfter doing all that I noticed someone actually makes a replacement harness to fix the factory flaws that are causing all these problems.

The post Just VFR800 things first appeared on Maredana.

The sweetspot for my card seems to be a little core overclock and a lot of memory overclock and half power.

My mainboard is using 20 Watt and the cards between 65 and 75 Watt.
This will cost me less then €1 per day.

This will generate a nice bit of pocket money.

I made a litte powershell script to gather some data and send it by MQTT to my pimatic setup.

Ander after a few days the expected earnings are positive.

The post First results with the mining rig first appeared on Maredana.

We started with two Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1060 WINDFORCE OC 3G cards.

Part list:

• Intel Celeron G1830, 2.8GHZ, 2MB, S1150
• Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 1060 3GB OC WindForce
• Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 700W
• Asrock H81 PRO BTC R2.0
• pci-e usb riser

Undervoltaged and overclocked with MSI afterburner, normal power was 250Watt and now it runs arround 160Watt with 44MH/s on ETH.

The post New project, Miningrig with Nvidia GTX 1060 3GB first appeared on Maredana.

For some time now my heating is controlled by a raspberry with pimatic, the only function of the thermostat was showing the time.

I had an old Galaxy tab 10.1 laying around so why not use that instead.

After measuring and drawing a concept I started building something with wood.

It’s  something.. and massive so let’s find something else.
On thingiverse there are a lot of things to use but nothing I liked so I made a bracket myself. Download

The end result:

Only thing to do is to hide the USB cable.

The post Tablet wall mount for my domotica first appeared on Maredana.

My central heating is being controlled by my raspberry/Pimatic for some time now and I must say it has been running nicely but it has one flaw…
The thermostat is in my living room so the radiators are fully opened and a DS18b20 records the temperature, but the rooms upstairs have to be set manually.
In a perfect world you would set this one time but I have kids and when it’s cold you set the radiator to thermonuclear war and then forget about it….

Behold.. the solution…

It works on 868 Mhz and is controlled by a Cube, but it can also be controlled by a CUL, a simple instruction can be found here: https://forum.pimatic.org/topic/2483/pimatic-maxcul-and-max-cube-with-aculfw-acting-as-cul/3 and the plugin for Pimatic.
I used this repo for the arduino because it doesn’t have the LOVF “problem”.

The code is made for Arduino, porting it to ESP is for later.
I adapted a Arduino nano case from Thingiverse, download it here.

With these I can control the radiators upstairs, There is a sensor on the windows and a temperature sensor in every room.
One thing left to do is to detect if someone is present.

The post Max! thermostat with raspberry and arduino first appeared on Maredana.

Things I am doing/going to do:

• Convert my aquarium setup from cabled to WIFI
• Make a WIFI light in the bike shed.
• Finish my Roomba WIFI project.
• Finish my Max! radiator WIFI project.
• Replace the old thermostat for a tablet (see below).
• replace the wired temperature sensors for WIFI.
• Finish my gear indicator/SR temperature logger for my bike.
• Add a Raspberry Pi zero to my bike for dashcam.
• Replace my glowing egg for RGB LED behind the tablet.
• And more…

Here are some images of the tablet project.
My colleague made this and I am quite lazy so I adapted it
check out his stuff at Github:

The Nodemcu/ESP8266 code https://github.com/koffienl/ESPimatic 

and the pimatic/nest interface for your tablet https://github.com/koffienl/PimaticGUI

The post Winter is coming so domotica time! first appeared on Maredana.

So after my LED fiasco I ordered a new connector to fix my instrument panel.
I contacted RVZ motors to see if they had a wiring harness of a VFR800.
They replied quickly and had some old wiring harnesses of a VFR 750, the blue and green connectors are the same as my 800.
The only difference is the 750 version has more pins in use, I only needed the pins so more spares

So cut, solder and insulate and it was ready to go again….

It started up without problem and everything worked fine again… even the FI light blinked with the indicators.

I traced all the ground leads on the back of the instrument cluster, cleaned all the connecting parts so that shouldn’t cause any problems.
After some digging on the interwebs I found fellow victims, turns out mister Honda thought it was a good idea to have all the ground wires got to a single place and connect them together.

See here and here.

I already cut of the connectors of my regulator/rectifier because they where shit, this one is next.
Mine wasn’t so bad as the ones above, only one wire was black so I cleaned all of them and squeezed the pins tighter.
It has to do for now, in a month or two the whole bike will be stripped anyway.

I went on a test ride today and no more ghost FI light ?

The post VFR800 ghost FI light FIX first appeared on Maredana.

Look here for the fix: https://maredana.nl/vfr800-ghost-fi-light-fix

Well I wanted to replace my headlights with LED’s anyway so let’s clean the connectors and see if that fixes the FI lights problem.
After cleaning the backside of the instrument panel I took on the connectors, as soon as I touched one of the pins it fell of ヽ(ಠ_ಠ)ノ

Look here for the fix: https://maredana.nl/vfr800-ghost-fi-light-fix

After I found my screwdriver in my wife’s plants (rage quit) I installed the LED lights.
         

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222465919831

My bike is imported from the USA and apparently the H4 socket isn’t a H4/P43T-38 socket but a p15D-25-3 (>.<)
Nothing a grinder can’t fix

A quick test:

*EDIT* 

I returned the LED lights, the rings can only fit in 3 ways and none was the correct way.
The little mirror on the LED should be on the bottom so the light hits an certain spot on top of the mirror, if it doesn’t do that the light goes all over the place.

Another flaw with these LED’s the ring falls of because of the vibrations >.<

The post VFR800 ghost FI light first appeared on Maredana.

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